Broadway History & Walks

Historical Buildings:
Even a quick walk around Broadway village reveals lots of historic buildings, each one with with it’s own story to tell.

The Cotswold Sheep (often referred to as the 'Cotswold Lion') were introduced to the UK by the Romans. Their wool known as the 'Golden Fleece' was an important export. It not only played a major role in the development of many Cotswold towns and villages, but also in the finances of the nation. In the Middle Ages, great flocks of sheep dominated Broadway’s wide main street on market days, and Italian ‘future buyers’ (who bought the future production of wool from the sheep farmer) were a common sight. Broadway grew and prospered due to wool trading, and as merchants became rich they spent much money on building fine houses for themselves.

The village population dwindled during the 16th Century when farms expanded greatly. The concept of land ownership strengthened as the open fields were whittled away or abolished by Acts of Parliament. More corn was grown by the farmers and less sheep were kept. Farms became larger, employing more labourers (whose cottages survive today).

The coaching route opened up over Fish Hill in the 1500s and Broadway became a busy stage coach stop on the route from Worcester to Oxford and London. A number of Inns were built to accommodate travellers. The village provided all the services that might be needed, including grooms, places of refreshment and extra horses for the steep haul up Fish Hill. As a result, there were once as many as 33 public houses in Broadway compared to the three which exist today.

The Lygon Arms is steeped in history. It is intriguing to think that, during the Civil War, King Charles I conferred with his confidants here and at a later date Oliver Cromwell actually slept at The Inn. Formerly The White Hart and privately owned since 1532, The Lygon Arms became part of a hotel group in 2005. The hotel is now owned by London & Regional Properties who have undertaken an extensive refurbishment plan.

Most of the historic buildings in Broadway are stone houses built in the 17th century. A few medieval, 18th and 19th century buildings also survive. Parts of Abbot's Grange and The Broadway Hotel are medieval.
The buildings that became The Broadway Hotel include what was called ‘Ivy Cottage’ and ‘Tanyard Cottages’. According to the deeds the property became a blacksmiths in 1772 and later the village baker. In 1934 ‘The Broadway Hotel’ was opened, under the ownership of a Mr Whiteman. The hotel passed through various owners along the decades, notably Ian Allen (of trainspotting & publishing fame) and it is now owned by the Horton family.

Both Broadway Hotel & Abbots Grange Hotel are now complex buildings which have been extended and altered over time, and both have timber-framed elements dating to the 14th century.
Abbots Grange is the oldest dwelling in Broadway and one of the oldest domestic/monastic properties in the UK, built during the early part of the 14th Century as the summer manor for the Abbot of Pershore. The construction of the main hall and buildings was probably commissioned by Abbot William of Harvington (1307-1340).  It is considered by the Institute of Archaeology to be one of the most important and best preserved English monastic manor houses, and has a rich and fascinating history.

There are a few other complete or partial medieval buildings surviving along the High Street, including the early 14th century Prior's Manse. The house was built at about the same time as Abbots Grange probably for the Steward of the Abbots of Pershore. The architecture of the house, the mouldings of the doorways, tie-beams and tooling of the ashlar wall facing date the house to the c1350.

Farnham House built c1660 overlooks the green and faces the heart of the village.
It was once the home of the Lord of the Manor. The building exemplifies Cotswold architecture in its tall diagonal chimneys, steep gables with dormer windows and little round attic windows, mullioned main windows with drip moulds, and a string course between the storeys. Francis D Millet (a member of the Broadway Colony of Artists) rented Farnham House in addition to Abbots Grange in 1885.

Russell House built in 1791, takes its name from its first owner and builder, John Russell. The gardens are equally spectacular and include a beautiful gazebo. Francis D Millet also lived at Russell House (More details further down the page).

Earlier History:
After the Norman Conquest (1066-1075) six new market towns were founded in Broadway, Chipping Campden, Moreton-in-Marsh, Stow-on-the-Wold, Burford and Northleach. Winchcombe was the head of a small shire before this. The Normans built a stone church in nearly every manor and more than half the land was owned by monastries. The closure of the monastries brought new gentry, whose gabled stone houses are an important legacy.

St Eadburgha's Church The font and pillars at Old Broadway Church are Norman, but as the church is dedicated to the Saxon St Eadburgha, it is possible that a wooden church previously existed. The church is now only used in the summer months.

Broadway got its name before the current High Street was in existence (before that there were settlements along Badsey Brook). The village was originally centred around the old church, St Eadburgha’s and the stream at Bury End (records from c860) and is recorded in more detail in the Domesday Book of 1086. Records mention the “broad road” running from St Eadburgha’s to Nether End north of the church where the old chapel was built (now the site of St Michael’s) - so that would be the lower half of the Snowshill Road and Church Street (used to be known as Chapel Street). The current High Street grew as the centre of the village gradually expanded northwards to its present location.

Famous Names:
William Morris stayed at Broadway Tower, discovered the village and then introduced his artistic friends including Francis D Millett and Edwin Austin Abbey to the village. They in turn introduced their friends including John Singer Sargent, Henry James and later Mary Anderson. Elgar was a friend of Mary Anderson for 30 years or so before his death and regularly visited her at her home Court Farm, Broadway.

Broadway Tower and William Morris Broadway Tower is an 18th century folly tower inspired by Capability Brown whilst landscaping Croome Court for the 6th Earl of Coventry. James Wyatt was commissioned as architect for the folly and completed the building in 1798.

The architecture used a large range of influences in one small building ranging from castle battlements and fortified walls to balconies with French windows and roof viewing platform.

Broadway Tower has enjoyed a number of well-known owners and occupants. William Morris, member of the Arts & Crafts movement, famous architect, designer, poet and revolutionary, used the Tower as a holiday retreat together with his friends Edward Burne-Jones and Dante Gabriel Rossetti.

Morris felt strongly about the damage caused by some architectural restoration. In 1876 the vicar of Burford had a public argument in the church with William Morris, who disapproved of how the church had been repaired. The vicar is said to have told Morris that it was his church, and he would stand on his head in it if he wanted. It was from Broadway Tower that significant letters were written by Morris leading to the founding of the Society for the Preservation of Ancient Buildings (SPAB) in 1877. The letters no longer exist but a full letter from William Morris was published in The Athenaeum (a liberal weekly arts newspaper) printed 5th March 1877 (information in this sentence is courtesy of The William Morris Gallery, Walthamstow). 

John Singer Sargent’s first major success at the Royal Academy came in 1887, with the enthusiastic response to Carnation, Lily, Lily, Rose, a large piece, painted on site, of two young girls lighting lanterns in an English garden in Broadway, The Cotswolds. The painting was immediately purchased by the Tate Gallery.

J.M. Barrie's connection with Broadway went back to the 1890s when he brought his team of artists, the Allahakbarries to Broadway for 3 years to play a team of which Mary Anderson was the non-playing captain.

Francis Davis Millet American painter, illustrator, writer, muralist & journalist born 3rd November 1846. Millet's artwork has been overshadowed by his colourful and energetic life: He served as a drummer boy and later as a surgical assistant (helping his father, a surgeon) during the American Civil War. He graduated from Harvard and worked as a newspaper editor before enrolling in the Royal Academy of Fine Arts at Antwerp, Belgium. Served as a journalist during the Russian-Turkish War and was decorated by Russia and by Romania for bravery under fire and services to the wounded. He went down on the Titanic in 1912 and was last seen helping women and children into lifeboats.

In the 1880s Francis Millet was a member of the Broadway Colony of Artists - an Anglo-American group including Alfred Parsons, Edwin Abbey & John Singer Sargent, keen to escape the squalor or the Industrial Revolution and seek old English rural tradition. Frank Millet rented Farnham House and then purchased Russell House. John Singer Sargent paid his first visit to Broadway in September 1885 and it was in the summers of 1885 and 1886 that Sargent painted 'Carnation, Lily, Lily, Rose' in the gardens of Farnham House and Russell House. Frank Millet acquired Abbots Grange in the late 1800s, at that time a deteriorated 14th century priory, which he converted into studios. Millet gradually restored Abbotts Grange with advice from William Morris. His finest work ‘Between two fires’ was painted in The Great Hall at Abbots Grange. The painting is now housed at the Tate Gallery in London.

Francis Davis Millet Lychgate In 1932 Millet's son Jack donated £120 to St Eadburgha's Church for the construction of lychgates in his father's memory. The lychgates form the entrance to the cemetery on Snowshill Road just south of Broadway, 200 yards south of the main churchyard and St Eadburgha's Church. The lychgates are of wooden construction, with a tiled, pitched roof. The four tie-beams of the lychgates carry the following carved inscription in Latin that translates as: In tribute to Francis Millet a man of excellence in the Arts and Literature. He met his death with fortitude as the ship Titanic sank whilst still giving hope to those who feared for their lives. His dear friends sought the dedication of this memorial in fond memory of his treasured fellowship.

Mary Anderson was born in Sacramento, California and made her stage début in 1875 as 'Juliet' in Louisville, Kentucky. She debuted in New York City in 1877 to great popular success.

Most of Mary Anderson’s performances in England, including Galatea, Juliet and Clarice in W. S. Gilbert's play Comedy and Tragedy, a role she created, were during 3 years in the 1880s when she leased the Lyceum Theatre from Henry Irving. In that period she also played both Hermione and Perdita in The Winter's Tale in London and Rosalind in As You Like It for one night at Stratford. Later, during the First World War, she did some charitable performances.

In 1890 Mary Anderson married Antonio Fernando de Navarro, a fellow American practising as a barrister in England and settled at Court Farm in Broadway, Worcestershire. Anderson published two volumes of autobiography, A Few Memories (1896) and A Few More Memories (1936).

HRH Prince Philip The Duke of Edinburgh visited the Gordon Russell factory in Broadway during the morning Friday of 15 March 1968, and had lunch at The Lygon Arms. Photos of Prince Philip in Broadway and meeting workers from Gordon Russell (from The Birmingham Post via Broadway History Society).

Broadway furniture makers Gordon Russell were awarded the Royal Warrant in 1938, and again in 1961 and count among their commissions one from Her Majesty the Queen and the Duke of Edinburgh. For his award-winning furniture and contribution to design, Gordon Russell was knighted in 1955.
If you are interested in furniture design we highly recommend a visit to the Gordon Russell Design Museum

For more history of Broadway please visit www.broadwayhistorysociety.co.uk

A Pathé video of Broadway in 1962
The pictures of the village are wonderful - even if the narrator is not very knowledgeable about its history….

The village of Willersey, just 1.7 miles from Broadway, also has a very interesting history. Willersey manor house was home to the Roper family, William Roper becoming son-in-law to Sir Thomas More. Then in 1577 Queen Elizabeth I granted tithe land in the village to the great composers Thomas Tallis and William Byrd. For more history about Willersey visit www.willersey.org/history.htm